2 It's hard not to leave Nari happy. You'd have to try hard to turn your nose up at the fragrant and belly-warming curries, the greenhouse-like interior, the poetic servers who describe spice levels through metaphor, and the menu that beckons San Francisco to get on its level rather than the other way around. The restaurant, which opened in August, exudes a refreshing confidence that can be rare to find here. More than anything, that's what makes it so compelling. Pim Techamuanvivit, the restaurateur who brought us Kin Khao and SFO's Kamin, imagines Nari (Thai for "woman" or "women") to be a tribute to the women who built what we know as Thai cuisine. Strangely, it feels subversive, even in 2019, to dedicate a commercial project solely to women without apology or concession. From start to finish, Techamuanvivit has an auteur's unshakeable vision of Thai cuisine, informed by her excitement over its inherent complexity and variety. That's what makes this place so good. There's no inquiry from the servers about how hot you want your food — no sense of concession here, no questions about "Thai hot" or "medium spicy" after you place your orders. The dishes that Techamuanvivit thinks… Read full this story
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